Appetizer (not on tasting menu): housemade Mangalista charcuterie
dom viux pressoir brut rose, saumur, france nv
Him: Kindai kanpachi – yogurt, nectarine, smoked trout roe
Me (menu substitution): Kindai tuna tartare – white soy, scallion, ginger
bernard defaix, petit chablis 2007crispy sweetbreads – ancho, smoked agave, zucchini, jalapeño
dom juillot, mercurey 2005
housemade cavatelli – fava beans, lamb bacon, grana padano
dom chartron, puligny montrachet 2006
local mushrooms – hen egg, veal reduction, summer truffle
dom arnoux, chorey les beaune 2005
Griggstown pheasant – jersey corn, tomatillo, avocado, potato
dom seguin manuel, lavieres 1er cru, savigny-les-beaune 2006
trio of Valley Shepherd cheeses
chateau vari, rsv du chateau, monbazillac, 2003
petit fours
Degustation
We came for the tasting menu. How could one possibly choose just ONE appetizer, entree, and dessert?
The amuse served its purpose as introduction to the tasting menu. The tomato sorbet was ice-crisp on the tongue, with an after-taste of salsa, which I enjoyed very much. The melon soup was a cold, refreshing cantaloupe soup, but the ham-and-egg salad was too tiny to discern much flavor. I got the flavor of ham, my husband got egg.
Unfortunately, we had to order an additional dish to the tasting menu (oh, ooh-ooh boo-hoo-hoo twist my arm), because the week before our dinner, elements hosted a
special event featuring
Mangalitsa pig from
Mosefund Farm. We first heard about Manalitsa and Mosefund Farm in
this NJ.com article. These “wooly pigs” are not only kind of
adorable, we heard they were very tasty. We wanted some. We hoped there would be some left. We were in luck.
Not on the tasting menu, but on the regular appetizer menu, was the “housemade Mangalitsa charcuterie,” which we paired with the rose brut simply because we like kicking things off with a sparkling wine, and the rose brut is very pretty with a strong enough palate to hold up to pig.
The charcuterie was beautifully presented and included head cheese, pâté, two meats, and lardo. Magnificent lardo. Yes, it’s fat, spread on toast, and it is downright heavenly. I’m pretty sure I’m missing something from the plate, but I am still distracted by the lardo, a creamy spread that is more subtle than bacon, but has its own richness with a texture that, literally, melted in our mouths.
To say Mangalitsa tastes like steak, as they did in the NJ.com article, is misleading. I think what people mean is that it has a much richer mouth feel (more fat!) and a sweeter, stronger flavor than our lean, factory farmed, supermarket friend. It is definitely not gamey or overly porky. Every preparation was delicious, and the kitchen clearly had a great time working with this product. We enjoyed every bit of it.
And so the tasting menu began. I asked for a substitute for the kanpachi (which request was granted without the blink of an eye, by the way, nice touch). I’m not a big fan of very fishy flavors and thought the roe might be too much for me, but I do like tuna tartare. It was our first introduction to Kindai, which was elegantly presented. The fish has a bright clean flavor, and hardly needs much to accompany it. The wasabi was a pleasant spicy note that didn’t overwhelm the flavor of the fish.
Crispy sweetbreads were perfectly prepared, light and just slightly crispy, with a wonderful hot and sweet sauce, garnished with fried shallots.
I read that Chef Anderson sourced his cavatelli maker from eBay. Although we felt the cavatelli may have been a little *too* to-the-tooth, the beans were fresh, the housemade lamb bacon had a pleasant sweetness, and I was thrilled to have grana padano rather than parmesan. There’s nothing wrong with parmesan (or any cheese for that matter), but I’m a fan in particular of the flavor and texture of grana padano.
The local mushrooms with egg, veal reduction, and summer truffle, is just what you’d expect in upscale comfort food. The egg yolk thickens the veal reduction to make a delicious sauce, and the earthy fragrance of truffles…well, it’s truffles [insert swoon].
I have been a fan of Griggstown’s poultry (and their pot pie) since I found them at Morristown Farmers Market (more about Griggstown in a later post). The pheasant was prepared two ways, breast on a cream corn sauce [more swooning here], and a dark meat timbale atop tomatillo and avocado, much like a guacamole. I haven’t had a flavor combination like it. It was sweet and meaty, tangy and rich.
Lastly was a trio of Valley Shepherd cheeses. I love ending a meal with cheese, but it’s often so hard to understand what they’re serving (sometimes I think the server doesn’t know and just mutters a bunch of French-sounding stuff), and when you do understand, it’s cheeses that one can’t easily obtain. Alternatively, one will be served a cheese plate that is nothing more than a hard, a soft, and a medium-textured bland “bleh” with toast and grapes and browning pears. So it was a nice change to end with cheeses that I’m familiar with (more on Valley Shepherd in a later post too). We had not had the blue before, so that was a treat.
The wine accompaniment to the cheese course, the chateau vari, was not part of the tasting menu – we ordered that ourselves, letting them pick whatever they thought might pair well. They did an excellent job; the wine was a perfect dessert wine, not too sweet or flowery or viscous, a light mouth-feel with good fruit.
I won’t get into the other wines. Suffice to say they were very good accompaniments to the food. We were fortunate to be dining on a night they were featuring wines from Burgundy. My absolute favorite was the dom arnoux, a medium-bodied, ripe cherry wine, that demands something delicious to be eaten with it. Done!
Service
The service here is well orchestrated, efficient, friendly and warm without hovering. Not a detail was left out: Table cleared and new service for each plate, wine served on-time with each course (waiting for wine at a tasting is aggravating), good descriptions of both wine and food. Appropriate questions were asked. For instance, when we asked about a spice in the first course, our server (whose name, forgive me, escapes me at the moment) asked if we had any issues with spicy food as the next course featured heat – he knew the menu, and had the common sense to ask.
We easily recognized our sommelier (and elements general manager) from our times at Ryland Inn. It was lovely to hear someone explaining wines without resorting to too much obscure winespeak, and clearly describing the facts: where they come from, what flavors there are, and how is it going to go with the food.
But the thing that pleased me most was watching the teamwork. There is an obvious hierarchy on the floor; busser, server, sommelier, manager, host, etc. However, if someone saw something that needed doing, they did it. There is nothing more infuriating than watching a server or a host not clear or refill water because, “it’s the bus’ job,” or “it’s not my table.” There was none of that here.
Between the food and the service, the overall feeling of being in it together, at one point I burst out, “I want to work here!” OK, calm down, do I really want to work on the line? No, not really, but I can’t think of a better place to get a top-notch education in fine cuisine, how to run a restaurant, and how to work as a team.
After dinner our server took us on a tour of the Chef’s Table and introduced us to the chef and sous chef, both of whom were gracious with their time.
End
At one point I found myself wondering why this place was in Princeton, next to a gas station (in fact, elements resides in what used to be the service station for that gas station, really!), and not in New York City. And then I became so very very grateful that it’s not in New York because then we’d never get a table. It is also clearly important to them that they be able to procure local goods and work closely with their purveyors. I wouldn’t change a thing.
We are very much looking forward to a return visit for our anniversary. Next time it will be the Chef’s Table!
Oh, and if this post seems overly long, well, we were there for four-and-a-half hours. I would have been perfectly happy to stay another four.